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More Grmcprxfreo Dvd Iso images. Windows 7 ISO Disc Image. Windows 7 SP1 Build 7601.19-1850 DVD ISO/UDF image. 3C45BCBB GRMCPRXFREO_EN_DVD Win 7 SP1 Professional.
They are retail versions but your legal OEM key should work just fine, just make sure you get the version that matches your key (if you have a home premium key you can't activate Pro or Ultimate and visa versa). The difference would be that your OEM version ships with extra things including the drivers specific to your computer, trial-ware software such as MS office and virtual coin games (that you usually end up deleting anyway) and one or two helpful programs such as on-screen volume/contrast display and software to make the touchpad on laptops function. It is recommended you download the latest drivers from your hardware manufacturer and burn them to a DVD prior to install.
The more useful OEM programs are also normally available for download from your computer manufacturer. As for the trialware, you would need to either buy the software or find alternatives. So these will work as well on machines like dell/hp-compaq/toshiba/acer/gateway/emachines/etc that originally came with win7 and will activate automatically upon installation w/o requiring the user to type in the COA on the laptop/desktop, thats good to know. For some reason, i thought only store purchased or microsoft downloaded OEM versions worked with said machines and would activate accordingly on its own and retail version didnt.
I required the oem version when installing original win7 home premium/professional x86/x64, depending if for personal or buiness use on a new hard drive when the original with factory restore partition went bad. EDIT: I currently own a win7 48in1 non SP1 dvd, i wonder if there is a SP1 version to be had, its much more convinient to have all on one disk, but what i do now is load the OS from a flash drive, its much faster. I've restored many win7 OEM machines, mostly if not all have been just the home premium version and using the COA can be trying at best when it comes to laptops. One complaint i personally have is that the manufactures put the sticker on the bottom side out in the open which tends to have the important info(version/serial) rubbed or torn off over time rendering it useless. The win7 48in1(oem) disk i own works best, because it reads the slick2.1 info from the manufactures BIOS telling it is win7, regardless of version and if its x86/x64 and activates it automatically w/o having to enter the individual serial number thats required.
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In the past i've always relied on the COA when installing the OS on a new hard drive, but again, the problem lays with the placement of the sticker on the laptop, if only ALL manufactures would put the sticker in the underside of the battery bay, that way its out of sight and the info never gets rubbed away or torn off, desktops doesnt suffer from that problem with their COA being mutilated unless removed on purpose for whatever reason. Came across an ACER netbook to restore(new hdd) that came with win7 starter originally and thought i'd test it by using the retail OS links from the first page. Sadly, it didnt preactivate like i thought it would, afterwards it showed i had three days to activate it, i thought the retail and oem disks were interchangeable when it came to manufacture machines, i guess its just applies to the serial numbers only.
Before the final install of the OS, it did ask for a serial number or given the choice to skip it to type in the serial at a later time, it did however automatically activate when an OEM disk was used, even though it did ask for a serial or to skip it as well towards the end of the install. As you can see, these are NOT preactivated disk and i prefer it that way, of course, for temporary testing purposes only, one could use a win7 loader or slic2.1 modify their non oem BIOSes, which is not for me, too risky for my taste. Again, since i restore original win7 oem machines, OEM disks are all i seek regardless of version or if 32bit or 64bit. Retail disks do me no good, unless theres a way to convert a retail disk to an oem disk, which im sure is highly unlikely. Preactivation comes from SLIC in the BIOS and only works for the version it is designed and only if the BIOS does in fact have SLIC. If the netbook is programmed with W7 Starter then none of the links in this thread will work without some modification because none of these links are W7 Starter. If you download the 32-bit version and then remove ei.cfg the updated ISO can be used to install W7 Starter.
If the BIOS has SLIC it would in all likelihood preactivate if you use the correct version but as I have said before, it is a good idea to use a tool like SIW to get the license code just in case it doesn't. So just to be clear, preactivation does not come from the disk, it comes from your BIOS. Use of a loader is an attempt to fake this preactivation in order to pirate the OS and is illegal and not recommended by w7forums.
I never tried it because i was just experimenting to see what the retail and oem disks would do on manufactured machines w/o having to type in a serial number. I did manage to finally create an WIN7 SP1 OEM 9in1 x86x64 AIO disk with integrated $OEM$ folder with the necessary files to look specifically for the SLIC2.1 bios to automatically activate original win7 machines, along with their respective logo and wallpaper according to brand, neat stuff. Thanks again for the all the helpful info provided, Trainableman! Hello everyone, I downloaded the ISO and have been running an experimental gaming build which is now something I want to keep around. So I would like to purchase a Genuine Microsoft Product Key so that I may activate. What is the easiest / most cost-efficient way to purchase one? I clicked to the 'purchase online' link during the activation process, but it seems to take me to a website which says 'download required Windows validation components'.
I'd prefer not to install anything else on my system that is not gaming-related - as I'd like to keep it as lean and bloat-free as possible. Please advise and thanks in advance! It's merely Validation software to help prevent piracy, it should be small and it should run once but it shouldn't stay memory resident so it's not like you will be out any RAM and very little hard drive space. But still, since you are in the USA, it will be much more expensive through Microsoft. Better to just order a copy from. Buy the same version you have installed 32 or 64-bit, Home Prem, Professional, Ultimate. It will come with a key and a DVD, simply activate using that key when it arrives.
To save money consider an OEM version, just understand that you support that version yourself and it can never be transferred to another computer.
After a lot of testing, downloads and thanks to a ELMS program from MS, I got a lot of.iso images and burned DVDs of Windows 7. I'm sure now I should have a least these:. RC Ultimate english 64. RTM Pro Es 64. RTM Pro es 32 How can I pick the right one to install now??
(I know, I have a mess on my external HD and I should label the disc after burning, but I didn't). I want to install the RTM Pro es 64 again. How do I know which one this is? PD: These are the ones that I think I have:.
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GRC1CULXFRERESDVD. GRMCPRFRERESDVD PD2: What I really want to know is how can I see if those ISOs are x86 or x64?
Sounds to be like you have. Release Candidate of Ultimate, X64 64-bit edition. Final release, Professional edition X64 - 64-bit edition - Spanish. Final release, Professional edition X86 - 32-bit edition - Spanish As for seeing which one is x64 and which one is x86, I think that GRMCPRFRERESDVD is x86/32-bit and GRC1CULXFRERESDVD is x64/64-bit but you can confirm by opening the ISO in Winrar or another extraction program and take a look at autorun.inf - the top line of the x64 disk should be - AutoRun.Amd64.
